The culinary evaluation banquet for Mussel Tower and Suitable Treasure Tower was arranged by the magistrate to be held within the government office. The magistrate required them to use existing ingredients, focusing primarily on culinary skill rather than strictly adhering to winter provisions. On the day, Magistrate Cui invited nine provincial graduates to attend the banquet and participate in the evaluation, entrusting the decision to them. With each round of wine, two dishes were served, presented alternately by the two restaurants. At the end of the banquet, the graduates would each express their preference, naming their favored restaurant, and the one with the most votes would be declared the winner.
During the serving, each restaurant had a designated person to explain the preparation methods and creativity behind the dishes to the guests. Upon hearing that Mussel Tower had assigned Yang Shenglin to this role, Zhenzhen pleaded with her mother to let her take on the challenge. Unable to dissuade her, Qiu Niang reluctantly agreed.
Before the wine rounds began, both restaurants presented platters of fruits and vegetables, featuring seasonal fruits and candied preserves. The first round of wine was accompanied by dishes from Mussel Tower, who served a fruit dish named "Spring Orchid and Autumn Chrysanthemum" and a dish of wine-braised jade mushrooms.
The fruits used in "Spring Orchid and Autumn Chrysanthemum" were pear, orange, and a white pomegranate known as "jade pomegranate." "The perilla seeds are first pickled in plum brine, mixed with cane sugar frost, and then tossed with shredded pear, orange pulp, and jade pomegranate seeds. The shredded pear and jade pomegranate seeds are white, resembling orchids, while the orange pulp is golden, like chrysanthemums—hence the name Spring Orchid and Autumn Chrysanthemum," Yang Shenglin explained to the guests, inviting the magistrate and the graduates to taste.
Plum brine is the liquid produced from long-term pickling of green plums with salt, offering a salty and sour flavor. When tossed with freshly cut fruits and vegetables, it prevents discoloration and enhances the taste. The perilla seeds, fine and granular, sprinkled over the fruits, resembled sesame seeds. The Spring Orchid and Autumn Chrysanthemum dish, with its vibrant yellow and white hues, glistened appealingly and was beautifully adorned with sugar frost. The guests took small portions, and as they chewed, the perilla seeds burst, releasing a sudden fragrance of perilla into their mouths. The juices of the fruits blended with the salty sourness of the plum brine, creating a refreshing sensation while also offering the rich, sweet aroma from the oils in the perilla seeds. More appetizing than fresh fruit alone, the diners nodded in approval, feeling as though their taste buds had been awakened by this novel dish.
Seeing the guests' affirmation, Yang Shenglin smiled with delight and added, "The Tang poet Shi Guan once wrote: 'The crimson curtain and blue collars share honor on the same day; spring orchids and autumn chrysanthemums each flourish in their own time.' Here, the crimson curtain symbolizes the teacher's domain, and the blue collars represent the students. Today, all you graduates gather with the magistrate under one roof—spring orchids and autumn chrysanthemums, each excelling in its own beauty, fitting perfectly with the imagery of crimson curtains and blue collars. Is it not most fitting to savor this fruit dish in such a setting?"
The graduates clearly appreciated this interpretation, repeatedly praising its cleverness. Magistrate Cui also stroked his beard, nodding with a smile.
The other dish, wine-braised jade mushrooms, used fresh seasonal mushrooms about three inches long, grayish-white in color, pure and lovely. They were now served on a silver platter, accompanied by Linzhang green bamboo shoots, arranged exquisitely with an appealing color palette.
"These jade mushrooms grow on decaying wood, carrying the essence of the mountain forests. They are first boiled in water until half-cooked, then simmered in fine wine," Yang Shenglin explained. "I've heard that jade mushrooms are often consumed in the palace nowadays, roasted with butter, which undoubtedly offers a rich flavor. However, I believe using wine to dispel their cool nature better reveals their true essence."
The guests then tasted the jade mushrooms, also praising their delicate fragrance and refreshing taste.
Yang Shenglin continued, "Master Zeng Gong of Nanfeng once wrote in a poem: 'After the rain, village delicacies gather white mushrooms; by autumn's end, guests raise cups to red blossoms.' This shows that incorporating mushrooms into a village banquet is most fitting."
Zeng Gong was exceptionally talented, his writing elegant, balanced, and harmonious, and he was also a renowned statesman of his time. Hearing Yang Shenglin quote his verse, the graduates found the jade mushrooms even more refined, and their flavor seemed to grow more delightful as well.After tasting the two dishes, the guests raised their cups once more and proceeded to the second round of wine. Yang Shenglin retreated to one side, smiling as he gazed across at Zhenzhen, watching how she would respond.
Zhenzhen calmly nodded toward the outside, signaling the attendants to present the two dishes from the Suitable Treasure Tower. In the dynasty, tableware was predominantly made of lacquerware, with the wealthy often using gold and silver vessels, while the poor used porcelain. Unlike the silver plates used by the Mussel Tower, these two dishes were served in lacquer boxes and appeared rather ordinary—one was a cold dish of raw crab, and the other looked like sliced pickled cucumbers.
Without explaining first, Zhenzhen invited everyone to taste the raw crab. The crab used was the common river crab of the Jiangnan region, shaped like a shuttle, finely chopped into pieces each no larger than half a finger joint. Almost every piece contained translucent raw crab meat resembling longan flesh or orange-red crab roe. It was evident that it had been seasoned with various condiments, with minced ginger and scallions visible to the naked eye.
Raw crab was a common local dish, available in all restaurants and prepared by ordinary housewives. The tribute scholars found nothing novel about it and casually picked up a piece to taste. Gradually, however, they began to detect a special fragrance. The raw crab had a smooth, cool texture, with the meat hidden within the shell. When held between the lips and teeth, a gentle suck would release the semi-liquid meat from the shell, allowing it to slide onto the tip of the tongue. Ordinary raw crab was typically marinated with orange pulp, vinegar, soy sauce, ginger, and scallions, but the Suitable Treasure Tower’s version added several layers of flavor. A salty and sour taste, accompanied by multiple aromas, swept across the palate, while the lingering sensation at the base of the tongue distinctly revealed the fresh, sweet flavor unique to aquatic products. As the guests savored the dish, they exchanged glances, their eyes lighting up with pleasant surprise.
Only then did Zhenzhen begin to explain: "The method for preparing this raw crab was modified by my mother. It is based on the traditional flavors of Pujiang, but the seasonings differ. The raw crab is chilled with ice for about half an hour, then chopped finely. Cardamom, fennel, sand ginger, Sichuan pepper, black pepper, and fresh ginger are ground into powder. Sesame oil is first boiled and allowed to cool before adding scallions, salt, and vinegar. The ground seasonings are then mixed with the crab, and it is ready to serve immediately."
The scholars suddenly understood. Zhenzhen continued, "These ten seasonings complement one another, removing the fishy taste of the raw crab while enhancing its aroma. The marinating time is short, so the crab meat is infused with the flavors of the spices without being overly saturated. The seasonings are neither too salty nor too strong, ensuring they do not completely mask the fresh taste of the river crab."
Magistrate Cui also smiled and remarked, "Raw crab is a common local home-style dish. The Suitable Treasure Tower’s approach preserves the flavors of our hometown while adding variation, enhancing the taste and freshness. It can truly be called a delicacy."
Zhenzhen smiled and thanked the magistrate for his praise. The magistrate then asked, "Earlier, the two dishes from the Mussel Tower were accompanied by poetic verses to enhance their appeal. Does this raw crab also have a fine verse dedicated to it?"
Zhenzhen fell silent, momentarily at a loss for words. Suddenly, someone at the table spoke up on her behalf: "The preparation of this raw crab is similar to the 'hand-washing crab' of Bianjing, both meant to be eaten immediately after washing one’s hands. In the past, Su Yijian, a renowned minister of the Taizong era, composed a poem after tasting hand-washing crab: 'Purple-bearded frost crab, shell thin as paper; grape-like flesh, amber marrow.' Looking at this raw crab now, its shell is also thin as paper, and its meat resembles grapes and amber, perfectly matching the poetic imagery of Councilor Su."
Zhenzhen turned to look at the speaker. He appeared to be in his twenties, dressed in the same attire as the tribute scholars, clearly one of the scholars participating in the tasting that day. His complexion was slightly dark, with a broad forehead and a dignified, imposing presence. Noticing her gaze, he smiled slightly and bowed slightly toward her.
Su Yijian was a top scholar of the Taizong era who rose to the position of councilor. Upon hearing his name, the scholars felt particularly delighted, immediately considering the consumption of raw crab as a good omen. They echoed the speaker’s words in agreement, heaping further praise on the raw crab.At this moment, only Yang Shenglin was not smiling. He too was watching the scholar, a trace of confusion hidden in his eyes.
Zhenzhen then invited everyone to taste another dish: "This is Suitable Treasure Tower's secret recipe for stuffed melon. We take naturally ripened green melons from the vine, cut them in half, remove the pulp, lightly salt them to draw out moisture, then shred ginger, dried tangerine peel, mint, and perilla, mix them with fennel, fried sand ginger, and sugar, stuff the mixture into the melon halves, tie them with string, and soak them in a soy sauce jar for five or six days. Afterward, they are taken out and sun-dried. When serving, they are sliced."
Everyone tasted it again, finding the melon flesh firm, with a texture that was both tender and crisp, blending salty and sweet flavors. It also carried the refreshing, spicy, and sweet notes of dried tangerine peel, mint, and ginger. The taste, much like the sensation brought by the raw crab, felt both familiar and novel.
"All of you scholars must have a few pickled dishes in your daily meals, right?" Zhenzhen said. "Our Suitable Treasure Tower initially focused mainly on selling pickled vegetables. Being able to reach where we are today is thanks to our fellow townspeople, who are accustomed to eating pickled dishes as accompaniments. I once left home for many days, and though I faced exotic delicacies from other regions, I found them tasteless. I kept thinking of the dishes from my hometown, including this stuffed melon. Pickled dishes can stimulate the appetite and promote salivation, and they are easy to store for long periods. In the future, if you achieve success in the imperial examinations and leave your hometown to serve as officials, you might consider bringing some with you. They carry the taste of home, and when you miss home, tasting them will make you feel that the hometown you long for has never truly been far away."
(To be continued)
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