A Yuan once said that the food in their shop was so delicious that it wouldn’t be strange even if it attracted the Emperor himself. Who would have thought those words would actually come true?
Among the common folk of Chang’an, who hadn’t heard a few tales of the Emperor traveling incognito? The most widely circulated were those about Emperor Xuanzong. The romantic emperor was said to have wandered into the East Market, first watching foreign dances and the Hundred Entertainments of sword-swallowing and pole-climbing. Then he drank a bowl of Cheese Drink at Old Qiu’s shop—though some claimed it was cherry pastries at Fragrant Delights. Naturally, there were also versions where he did both before heading to Pingkang Ward to enjoy music, where he encountered a courtesan who possessed both the charm of Consort Yang and the talent of Consort Mei...
The subsequent developments varied. Most versions heard by young ladies described the Emperor in high spirits, personally beating a drum to accompany the courtesan’s dance of the Rainbow and Feather Garment—hence, the version performed in Pingkang Ward was said to have been personally instructed by the Emperor, identical to that of the Inner Conservatory.
The tales shared among gentlemen at private banquets were far more risqué. The Emperor inevitably engaged in certain intimacies with the courtesan, and some even claimed Consort Yang arrived in a jealous rage to catch them in the act. Others insisted the courtesan was actually Consort Yang in disguise, and the whole affair was merely a playful dalliance between the two...
Besides Xuanzong’s stories, there were also those about Emperor Taizong, Emperor Gaozong, Empress Wu... Even the late Emperor had his own tale—encountering a blunt-speaking Daoist priest on the street. In these stories, taverns and eateries often appeared as passing backdrops. But this time, Shen Ji was the undisputed protagonist.
After the New Year celebrations and Renri Festival, court officials returned to their duties, and businesses reopened, yet the festive atmosphere lingered. People strolled the streets leisurely, still exchanging cheerful greetings like “Auspicious New Year, boundless longevity.”
The lunch rush at Shen Ji in the East Market had passed, and Shen Shaoguang lounged lazily behind the counter, sipping tea while discussing the upcoming menu changes with the manager.
The shop’s curtain was lifted as a group of four or five entered. Shen Shaoguang glanced over and froze.
The manager had already stepped forward to greet them. “Auspicious New Year to our honored guests. Would you prefer seating downstairs for the Amusement or upstairs for a quieter experience? The ground floor offers lively entertainment, while the second floor has high tables, chairs, and refined private rooms.”
Imperial Guard Commander Qin Xiang cautiously asked, “Sixth Lang, shall we go upstairs?”
The Emperor nodded and led the way up the stairs.
Shen Shaoguang had seen Qin Xiang from a distance twice before. Combined with her vague recollection of the Emperor’s face, she became certain of their identities. The others trailing behind the Emperor, judging by their demeanor, were likely eunuchs and Imperial Guards. More people entered afterward—some seating themselves downstairs, others positioning themselves on the second floor. She guessed there were even more stationed outside on the street.
The group wasn’t particularly conspicuous, and with Chang’an full of nobles, the other patrons paid them no mind, engrossed in Zhang Erlang’s Amusement performance on stage.
Zhang Erlang pompously ordered, “Go tell Hu Sixth Lang to buy some good mutton. We’re having Hot Pot—just missing the mutton.”
“Then tell Feng Third Lang to bring vegetables and tofu. We’re having Hot Pot—just missing those.”
“Tell Li Seventh Lang to join us for Hot Pot. Say Hu Sixth and Feng Third are already here, and we’re only missing him. Oh, and have him bring a fish along.”
“Fang Second Lang’s hidden stash of fine Nü’er wine—tell him not to be stingy and bring a jar. The brothers will share it for a good drunk.”"You must remind Zhou Si to make a detour to Shen Ji and buy a jar of the aged hot pot base. Without this, no matter what you cook in it, it'll be tasteless!"
...
Playing the servant, A Dou asked, "Since A Lang is hosting, what should we prepare? This servant can buy everything at once."
Zhang Erlang, who was "deploying troops and generals," said with an air of ease, "Just boil a pot of water on the stove."
The guests burst into laughter. Even the emperor sitting by the railing on the second floor chuckled, followed by the eunuchs and Imperial Guards.
The manager returned to the counter to fetch the menu, and Shen Shaoguang seized the opportunity to give him a few instructions before heading to the kitchen.
With a smile, the emperor asked the tavern manager, "Does your establishment sell the aged hot pot base for takeout?"
The manager replied with a smile, "Indeed, we do. Many guests often say they can't replicate the flavor of our dishes at home, and that’s mostly because they lack this base broth."
A regular customer downstairs called out to Zhang Erlang, "What about the pot? The pot at Shen Ji is specially crafted!"
Zhang Erlang slapped his forehead. "Look at me! Then add Liu Ba to the list and have him ask if Shen Ji sells the hot pot set."
The regular customer then raised his voice to call the manager, "Manager, manager! Does your tavern sell hot pot sets?"
The manager excused himself from the noble guest before him and went to the staircase to answer, "We don’t sell the pots. If I may say, gentlemen, if you want to enjoy hot pot, it’s best to come to our humble shop. Never mind the taste—at least you won’t be cheated by such a miser." He pointed at Zhang Erlang.
His deadpan delivery only made it funnier, and the laughter grew even louder.
The manager also chuckled and returned to attend to the emperor and his party.
The emperor praised with a smile, "Your tavern is quite amusing! Who came up with this?"
The manager replied deferentially, "Our shop offers special fragrant cakes as rewards, inviting guests to share amusing anecdotes they know. Then, our owner selects and edits them, often blending stories from several guests into one segment. It’s hard to say who exactly came up with it."
The emperor nodded, thinking the owner was truly ingenious—who knew a tavern could "broadly solicit opinions"? He then mused that perhaps he should send someone to gather folk customs.
The manager presented the menu, and the emperor began flipping through it.
Shen Ji’s menu was another standout feature of the tavern. Beyond the dish names, each entry included a line or two—whether about unique preparation methods, amusing commentary, poems written by past diners, or little anecdotes. Some even had accompanying illustrations. The booklet was beautifully bound, distinct from the scrolls of the time, using a butterfly-fold binding that made flipping through it effortless.
The emperor had intended to browse casually but soon found himself engrossed. "Fascinating... Even without eating, just looking at this is delightful."
The manager smiled deferentially.
The emperor glanced at the eunuch beside him, who understood immediately. "This servant has already taken note." The imperial kitchens would have a similar booklet made later.
The emperor ordered the classic Milky Soup Hot Pot, along with an assortment of meats like lamb, fish balls, shrimp balls, and vegetables.
The waiter brought the tea, pastries, and fruits arranged by Shen Shaoguang, and the manager helped set them out before withdrawing with the waiter.
In the kitchen, the manager relayed the order to Shen Shaoguang, who instructed the cooks based on the emperor’s preferences.
The manager asked, "Who is this guest? The young lady is being so cautious."
Shen Shaoguang pressed a finger to her lips in a "hush" gesture but said nothing more.
Hot pot dishes were prepared quickly. Shen Shaoguang personally mixed the basic dipping sauce and arranged other condiments on a tray. The manager returned with the waiter to deliver it upstairs.The emperor was flipping through a poetry collection on the table and asked the manager with a smile, "Who is this 'Master of the Eastern Hall' who wrote the preface? Quite a talent."
The manager replied with a respectful smile, "Answering our honored guest, I heard he is a friend of our proprietor."
The emperor had merely asked casually. At this time, it was common for scholars to earn fees by writing various articles for others, and so-called "friends" were mostly of this sort. Judging by the style and phrasing of the preface, the emperor guessed it was likely penned by a high-ranking court official—securing such a contribution must have cost the shop owner a considerable sum.
The emperor didn’t concern himself with such matters among officials. Emperor Xianzong had once bestowed five hundred bolts of silk upon Han Yu for composing the "Pinghuaixi Stele," and even during the previous reign, there was the "Thousand-Gold Minister," so named because he charged a thousand gold coins per character for writing epitaphs.
Still... the emperor recalled the amusing Amusement and the cleverly written recipe book. It wasn’t impossible for a shop owner like this to be friends with someone in the court. The emperor then felt a twinge of envy—why didn’t he have such a friend who was both skilled in culinary arts and entertaining?
Setting the poetry collection aside, the emperor invited Qin Xiang to dine with him.
Qin Xiang bowed apologetically. "In that case, this humble servant will overstep my bounds."
Though Qin Xiang now served as the commander of the Imperial Guards , he had originally been one of the emperor’s inner attendants—perhaps precisely why he had been appointed to the position. Serving the emperor was his foremost skill.
He poured out a bit of dipping sauce, tasted it with the tip of his chopsticks, and nodded. "Hmm—this flavor is just right. Adding anything else would spoil it." With that, he prepared the dipping dish for the emperor.
Following the emperor’s preferences, Qin Xiang first dropped a few fish balls into the pot.
The manager smiled. "Our fish balls are made from fresh fish. They cook instantly and are extremely tender—best scooped with a ladle."
Qin Xiang fished out the fish balls, placing them in his own dish and the emperor’s, then tasted one first. "Sixth Brother, try it. This humble servant finds it excellent."
The emperor took a bite. Indeed, the fish ball was tender and fresh, melting in his mouth with barely any need to chew. The dipping sauce was also superb—a hint of leek flower and the spiciness of Zanthoxylum piperitum , but not overpowering, perfectly complementing the fish. Then they boiled shrimp balls, various meat slices, and vegetables, and the emperor found himself eating earnestly.
Truthfully, the emperor hadn’t been hungry earlier. In the afternoon, he had overheard Imperial Guard Wu Xian and a few junior officers discussing a trip to Shen's Shop in the East Market for hot pot, raving about how delicious their last meal had been. The emperor then remembered that Fuhui had also mentioned this tavern—the very pot they were using had come from there, praised by Lord Li . It must be the same place. On a whim, and with nothing pressing during the festival, he decided to step out and share in the people’s joy.
As for the hot pot here, it wasn’t necessarily better than the palace’s, but it was undeniably satisfying and delightful. The emperor recalled the manager’s earlier remark that guests couldn’t replicate the flavor at home. Could even my household fail? The emperor chuckled, unoffended.
Besides, the atmosphere here was truly pleasant. Downstairs, the Amusement had changed again.
"It’s not that I don’t like studying—it’s that reading makes me hungry."
"I’m the opposite. Reading makes me sleepy."
"Goodness, how can you possibly get sleepy?"
"How can you get hungry?"
"Just look at this—'Two golden orioles sing amid the willows green.' Tsk, tsk. Two golden orioles—wouldn’t they be delicious deep-fried? Or stir-fried dry? Even minced and fried into a sauce, poured over Broad Noodles , would be excellent.""And then there's this—'The peonies before the courtyard are enchanting yet lack grace, the lotus in the pond pure but devoid of passion. Only the peony is truly the queen of flowers, stirring the capital when it blooms.' Candied peonies, deep-fried lotus, sugar-steamed peonies... Tell me, doesn't it sound delicious?"
...
Laughter and cheers erupted from the crowd downstairs.
The emperor couldn't help but smile. During the festive season, enjoying such a delightful hot pot while watching his subjects at ease, his heart, previously troubled by the rebellion in Shannan Circuit, gradually settled. All in all, the realm remained prosperous and peaceful. He encouraged himself—for the sake of his people being able to feast on hot pot and enjoy such amusements every day, what did it matter if he worked a little harder?
Shen Shaoguang had no idea her hot pot had given the emperor such confidence. What she did know was that the emperor had left behind over twenty taels of silver and inscribed a poem in the collection. Even more unexpected was that when the emperor and his entourage departed, Qin Xiang was recognized by a diner. To see Commander Qin serving so attentively... the truth dawned on the onlookers.
Within days, rumors spread through the city about the emperor sneaking out of the palace to enjoy hot pot.
Shen Shaoguang instructed her manager to respond vaguely and ambiguously if questioned—partly because such mystery made for better gossip, and partly out of caution. Meanwhile, the emperor's rather unremarkable poem was transcribed by Shen Shaoguang, framed, and hung prominently in the main hall of Shen Ji, drawing wave after wave of curious customers.
Author's Note: ① A classic hot pot joke from the internet.
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