Yummy Yummy Yummy

The autumn breeze was cool, just the right time for fish and crabs.

While refined scholars waxed poetic about "nostalgia for water shield and perch," Shen Shaoguang brought back two catfish over two feet long.

Catfish weren’t exactly a delicacy—nothing compared to mandarin fish, carp, bream, or perch. There was even a poem that called them "slime-covered and utterly stupid," hardly fit for refined tastes. But Shen Shaoguang, a street-side shop owner, had no need for such pretensions.

Catfish were carnivorous and tenacious, still thrashing about even after being out of water for a while. If you weren’t careful, their tails could slap your leg hard enough to sting—truly living up to their "stupid" reputation.

Shen Shaoguang was a little worried about how to kill them and couldn’t help but miss the seafood shops of her past life, where they not only handled the killing but also the chopping and slicing.

Li Niangzi from the neighboring fabric shop spotted the fish in Shen Shaoguang’s hands and exclaimed in surprise, "Those catfish are so plump! Though they must smell awfully muddy." Then she smiled. "But Young Lady Shen’s skilled hands will surely make them taste different."

Shen Shaoguang shared a tip: "Add some wine and ginger while cooking to remove the fishy smell."

Li Niangzi was something of a fan of Shen Shaoguang’s cooking and took her words as gospel. Eagerly, she asked, "What kind of wine? And how much?"

Shen Shaoguang paused, switching the fish to her other hand—they were heavy, leaving red marks on her palms—and proceeded to enlighten Li Niangzi on the secrets of cooking fish. "The black membrane inside the belly must be completely scraped off," "Ginger and wine are both essential," "Add a bit of vinegar too—it removes the fishy taste and speeds up cooking..."

Li Niangzi nodded repeatedly, wishing she could write it all down if only she were literate.

Finally done dispensing wisdom, Shen Shaoguang carried the two fish to the narrow alley behind the shop.

Knowing Shen Shaoguang wasn’t adept at killing fish, A Yuan grabbed a wooden club. "I’ll do it!"

Shen Shaoguang quickly stepped aside, yielding the stage to the heroine.

A Yuan gripped the fish and whacked its head with the club.

Watching her channel the fury of Wu Song slaying the white-fanged tiger—and recalling how she once dragged two drunkards by hand—Shen Shaoguang hastily called out, "Don’t smash it to bits!"

A Yuan pulled back her strength, but the slippery fish, summoning its last burst of energy, suddenly twisted and leaped right over A Yuan’s head. Both women jumped in fright.

After the scare, they burst into laughter.

Shen Shaoguang chuckled. "Forget it, let’s just leave them here. I refuse to believe they won’t die without water!"

Unlike Shen Shaoguang, A Yuan wasn’t one to back down. This time, she found the trick—pinning the fish firmly against the stone slab by the water vat and delivering two solid whacks with the club. The fish stopped moving for good.

Shen Shaoguang gave A Yuan a thumbs-up. Grinning proudly, A Yuan repeated the process with the other fish.

"Today, the big fish head is yours!" Shen Shaoguang said with a laugh. Both of them loved fish heads.

Catfish were fatty, with tender flesh, but they lacked freshness and carried a muddy taste, making them perfect for braising.

Shen Shaoguang coated the fish pieces A Yuan had prepared with starch and pan-fried them. Then, in another pot, she heated oil and sugar to caramelize, added the fish, along with scallions, ginger, Sichuan peppercorns, cardamom, and dill seeds, then poured in a sauce mixture of wine, clear soy sauce, and vinegar... A rich, heavy-handed, straightforward home-style braise.

She also chopped an eggplant into large chunks to toss in near the end—a trick taught by a northeastern neighbor back in the day. "Catfish stewed with eggplant—enough to stuff an old man to bursting."That neighbor brother was a true gourmet at heart, whose greatest pleasure in summer was driving out to the woods to catch cicadas and fry them up at home...

Whether this braised catfish with eggplant would overwhelm the elderly gentlemen of the Tang Dynasty remained to be seen, but its aroma was so potent it attracted unexpected visitors: "Is that fish stew? I could tell just from passing by your door."

Shen Shaoguang smiled. "Dismounting at fragrance, stopping for flavor"—it seemed Lu Sanniang was a kindred spirit in culinary appreciation.

Truth be told, even without the enticing smell, Lu Sanniang would drop by regularly to trade barbs with Shen Shaoguang, a game they both seemed to enjoy. Shen suspected this elder sister might have some masochistic tendencies.

Lu Sanniang wasn't the only one drawn by the aroma. Two regular customers passing the shop actually came in to ask: "Are you selling fish today?"

Shen had only bought two fish—nowhere near enough for sale. The neighborhood lacked a dedicated fish market, and today's catch was purely serendipitous, likely from some angler's personal haul. Without reliable supply, it couldn't become a menu item.

"Not a new dish, I'm afraid. But if you'd like, I can offer you a complimentary bowl when you come for drinks this evening," Shen said with polished courtesy.

The customer immediately understood this was her personal meal and declined with a smile: "How could we impose? My apologies for the presumption!" Yet he earnestly suggested, "You really should serve more fish dishes."

After thanking him, Shen confirmed they'd still have Agate meat that evening, which seemed to please the wine-seeking patron.

As the customer left, Lu Sanniang clicked her tongue. "Still so silver-tongued, little miss!"

Shen shook her head with mock regret. "What can I say? Natural eloquence is a burden."

"..."

Lu Sanniang clearly couldn't process this modern-era shameless banter. Pressing her lips, she instead surveyed the shop's new Foreign Rug—several hundred coins worth, proof the business was thriving.

Returning from checking the kitchen pots, Shen found Lu wearing an expression of pure envy... Well, it made for good appetite stimulation—she might just have an extra bowl of fish today.

Their conversation was interrupted by a plump, middle-aged woman in peony-patterned russet silk, two large silver hairpins bobbing as she beamed: "What wonderfully fragrant cooking, young mistress!"

"...Just stewed fish warrants this much attention?" Shen began reconsidering her seafood menu options.

Assuming another aroma-chaser, she was surprised when the woman announced: "I come with congratulations!"

Lu Sanniang, initially irritated by yet another food admirer, perked up at this and reseated herself.

Serving the newcomer Cheese Drink, Shen inquired: "What occasion for congratulations?"

"This old woman is Jiang, an Official Matchmaker. I've been commissioned to propose marriage to the young mistress."

Lu's eyes rounded like full moons.

Shen raised amused brows. "Oh? Which worthy gentleman might this be?"

"The honorable Liu, recorder of the Capital Prefecture," the matchmaker proclaimed.

"..."

Rarely speechless, Shen could only think: So the guy was actually serious about this crush? And went so far as to send a formal matchmaker?I once heard someone say in my past life, "The greatest respect a man can show a woman is to marry her." Though somewhat biased, given Liu Feng's and my current circumstances, this indeed represented immense sincerity.

When someone shows respect, it should be reciprocated. As Shen Shaoguang was contemplating how to respond, Lu Sanniang tugged at her sleeve: "Which official is this Jingzhao Registrar?"

Seeing Shen Shaoguang hesitate, the Official Matchmaker smiled: "Let me tell the young lady about Liu Langjun's background. He hails from Dengzhou—his grandfather once served as Magistrate of Nanyang, making his family a proper scholarly and official household. Currently, his elderly mother and younger brother remain in their hometown."

After detailing his family background, she continued with Liu Feng's personal merits: "Liu Langjun is twenty-five this year. Two years ago, he achieved distinction in the Classics Examination, then passed the Imperial Examination to obtain his current registrar position. He's both honest and sensible. If the young lady marries him, she won't go wrong."

Shen Shaoguang nodded—a practical and suitable man indeed. Had her family merely declined without her status as a criminal official's daughter, marrying this fellow, gradually developing affection, living well together, and raising a couple of children might have led to a smooth and fortunate life in this Tang dynasty.

But now... best not bring misfortune upon others.

With a smile, Shen Shaoguang said to the Official Matchmaker: "Matters of marriage require careful consideration. May I have a few days to think it over?"

It wasn't customary to demand an immediate answer, and young ladies were expected to show some reserve. The matchmaker readily agreed: "Of course."

Shen Shaoguang added: "With my parents gone, I must take certain matters into my own hands, though it feels somewhat forward. I'd like to speak with Liu Langjun in person—would you kindly convey this message?"

The matchmaker nodded. A clever and beautiful young lady, reportedly from an official family... such a pity about her fallen circumstances...

After seeing the matchmaker out, Shen Shaoguang turned to find Lu Sanniang's indignant face.

"Young lady refused... is the Registrar Liu hideously ugly?" Lu Sanniang's expression shifted to suspicion mixed with hope. How could this Shen deserve such a good match? The man must be as ugly as a ghost!

Perhaps considering her own bleak marriage prospects, or perhaps because Lu Sanniang's expression was too transparent, Shen Shaoguang felt genuinely annoyed. With a faint smile, she said: "Not ugly at all—he's actually that man who bought seven sets of fried pancakes, the one you mocked."

Lu Sanniang's face changed again. That man had worn dark blue official robes, with striking eyebrows and eyes—youthful and handsome, not the least bit ugly!

"If you fancy him as a son-in-law... the matchmaker hasn't gone far yet. You could still catch up," Shen Shaoguang remarked casually.

This was clearly mocking her inability to find such a husband, implying she could pick up what Shen didn't want. Lu Sanniang was once again rendered speechless with anger before finally retorting: "Young ladies shouldn't be so arrogant! What exactly makes you so proud?"

Shen Shaoguang pretended to consider: "Perhaps my cooking skills, cleverness, and ability to earn money?"

Lu Sanniang stomped out in fury.

Turning to A Yuan who was cutting meat, Shen Shaoguang instructed: "From now on, buy our morning fried dough twists from Old Zhang's shop in the southern quarter!"

A Yuan responded cheerfully: "I'd say it's about time we changed!"

Her response dissipated Shen Shaoguang's irritation, though she still grumbled: "Old Zhang's twists are never quite crispy enough."

Shen Shaoguang never compromised on money or good food—this time she'd made an exception because of Lu Sanniang.When all the evening guests had left, Liu Feng arrived.

Author's note: ①Lu Tong's "Song of Watching the Freed Fish"