Cloud Arriving Tavern was the largest drinking establishment in Chongxian Ward, capable of seating over a hundred guests. Its lavish decor and Hu-dancer singers providing musical accompaniment made it quite respectable, though it couldn't compare to the famous grand taverns of the East and West Markets.
Business had always been good at Cloud Arriving Tavern, but recently the manager had been feeling rather vexed. These days, customers frequently brought outside food to accompany their drinks.
In truth, taverns generally didn't prohibit outside food. Occasionally, customers who had hunted geese or deer but disliked their home kitchens' preparation would bring the game to the tavern for cooking, and the establishment would happily oblige.
Of course, there were also customers with particular tastes who sometimes brought coarse snacks like fried tofu or fermented fish from street stalls. The tavern staff would simply smile at these, even providing plates—what could they do if that's what the customer fancied?
But recently, customers had been arriving with small white porcelain dishes containing either two squares of glistening, quivering red meat or meatballs the size of a child's fist. They'd call out, "Bring us soup spoons!"—the meatballs were so tender they couldn't be picked up with chopsticks, only scooped with spoons.
With such customers becoming increasingly common, the tavern naturally took notice. The awkward part was that while many dishes ordered from the tavern went unfinished, these small plates were always scraped clean, with even the sauce poured over rice.
How could this be?
Upon inquiry, the manager learned the food came from Shen Ji in the ward. He knew of Shen Ji—its owner was a beautiful young woman who made excellent cakes and jade tip noodles.
During the recent festival, the manager had even ordered Flower Cake gift boxes from her shop. The cakes were exquisitely made, with some designs even the specialized bakeries in the markets didn't offer.
But when had she started selling meat dishes?
Food shops and taverns typically operated separately—food shops specialized in sesame flatbread, steamed buns, rice cakes, broad noodles and other grain-based foods, with many only serving breakfast. Taverns mostly opened at noon, serving alcohol, dishes, and post-drinking meals, with noodles and pastries not being their focus.
The manager was displeased by this boundary-crossing of a food shop selling meat dishes, especially when customers brought them into his tavern as an implicit rebuke. But he couldn't take it out on customers, and as for confronting a young woman at Shen Ji... better to have someone buy some to taste first.
Indeed! Even the Cloud Arriving manager had to admit the food was excellent. Never had he seen pork prepared so well—rich yet tender without being greasy, and beautifully presented, worthy of appearing at grand banquets.
He had his chefs attempt to replicate the dishes, but without knowing certain techniques, their versions always fell slightly short.
Unaware that she'd violated industry norms and attracted unwanted attention, Shen Shaoguang was currently instructing A Yuan on how to mince meat for Lion's Head Meatballs.
The meat for these meatballs required particular care—equal parts lean and fat, or perhaps 40-60 or 60-40 ratios. Writer Wang Zengqi advocated 70% fat to 30% lean, while Liang Shiqiu believed "70% lean to 30% fat" was ideal. Shen Shaoguang took the middle path, agreeing with gourmet Yuan Mei that "half lean, half fat" worked best.
The cutting technique was even more particular—first removing sinews, then carefully dicing before light chopping. This "more cutting, less chopping" approach was crucial. Cutting chunks too large or mincing into paste wouldn't do.
A Yuan showed promise with her knife work—strong, patient, and crucially, genuinely interested. Given time, she might become an excellent cook.After chopping the meat, the remaining steps had to be done by Shen Shaoguang herself. She dusted her hands with starch and shaped the meat into large round balls—no starch was added to the meat itself, as it would make the texture sticky. Then she deep-fried them to set their shape before steaming them over water for two hours.
The Lion's Head Meatballs made this way were as tender as tofu.
As the weather grew cooler, and because her small eatery lacked space for dine-in customers, Shen Shaoguang mostly sold slow-cooked, steaming stewed dishes—naturally, these were also famous dishes from later generations, having stood the test of time for centuries, making it easier to build a reputation.
With Agate Meat and Lion's Head Meatballs already on the menu, Shen Shaoguang considered adding jar-braised chicken. She also looked forward to the colder weather, when she could start curing ham. Later, she could use the ham's flavor to stew tofu and cabbage, steam duck or fish, or simply make honey-glazed ham or aged wine ham... Mmm!
These soft, rich, and tender steamed and stewed dishes not only suited the season but also catered to the tastes of elderly patrons—such as Li Yue, the Minister of Rites residing in Yankang Ward.
Li Yue, now in his sixties, had been Minister of Rites over a decade ago. Later, he was demoted and served two terms as a provincial governor in Jiangnan before returning last year to resume his position as Minister. Recently, he was also appointed as Tong Zhongshu Menxia Pingzhangshi, making him one of the four chancellors in the Council of State.
Lord Li was a man of refined tastes. It was said that in his younger days, he had been quite radical and offended many powerful figures. After several ups and downs in his official career, his temperament mellowed, and he found solace in landscapes, poetry, music, and fine food.
Yankang Ward was right next to Chongxian Ward. Due to their master's preferences, Lord Li's servants often scouted for delicious food—which eventually led them to Shen Shaoguang's shop.
From jade tip noodles to various Flower Cakes, Agate Meat, and the recent Lion's Head Meatballs, all suited the old minister's palate. The Li family servants frequently made trips to Chongxian Ward. Even when hosting banquets, Shen Ji's meat dishes and meatballs were served at the table.
Lord Li even singled them out, clearly genuinely impressed: "Shouren, An Ran, do try this Agate Meat."
Bai Fuyin, the Metropolitan Governor, was only a few years younger than Li Yue and just one rank below him in office. Yet he treated the chancellor with great respect. After tasting it, he nodded with a smile, "The color of rouge agate, with a lingering fragrance on the palate—the name is clever! Your private chef's dishes are truly marvelous."
Lord Li laughed, "This isn't from my private kitchen. Try the Lion's Head Meatballs as well."
Before even tasting it, Bai Fuyin chuckled, "What a mighty name!" Mimicking Li Yue, he scooped a piece with a spoon and placed it in his mouth, his expression shifting in surprise. "So tender!"
Lord Li then turned to Lin Yan, "What do you think, An Ran?"
Lin Yan smiled faintly, "This official also finds it excellent."
"This was bought from an eatery in your ward. Haven't you tried it before, An Ran?"
Lin Yan wiped his lips with a handkerchief. "Indeed, I haven't." So refined... it shares the same lineage as those jade tip noodles with soup.
Bai Fuyin laughed, "Chongxian has no shortage of delicacies! The young officials in our yamen often eat Chongxian's egg pancakes in the morning. I tried them once—quite tasty."
Lord Li grinned at Lin Yan, teasing, "I can't quite picture An Ran holding a pancake to eat."
The corners of Lin Yan's lips curled slightly, but he offered no explanation.
Bai Fuyin, however, chuckled, "An Ran isn't among them. After working together for so long, I've yet to see An Ran act hastily."Lord Li sighed faintly, "An Ran's grace is just like back in the—" He suddenly cut himself off, covering his slip by taking a sip of wine before smiling. "Why not have Taorui perform a segment of 'Spring Oriole's Song,' with Chunnu accompanying on the pipa, as thanks for your life-saving kindness?"
Li Yue's beloved concubines Taorui and Chunnu had gone for an outing at Qujiang when their horses were startled. It happened that several constables from the capital's administrative office were passing by and rescued the two women. Today, Lord Li had specially arranged this banquet to express his gratitude.
The two women came forward, first thanking the two officials from the capital for saving their lives—though those men hadn't actually been present at the scene—before beginning their song and dance performance.
With wine and music, how could there be no poetry?
"Powdered face and emerald brows, a touch of sandalwood lips, the color of rouge... Floral stickers fallen to the ground, a supple waist, delicate and powerless..."
As Lin Yan listened to the verses from his two former superiors, he took a sip of wine and ate the piece of Agate meat from his small plate. Why did these lyrics seem to be describing this very piece of meat?
Author's note: The method for making Lion's Head Meatballs was referenced from online sources as well as articles by Mr. Liang Shiqiu and Mr. Wang Zengqi.
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